Storks and Bears and Cold Winds

We had a decent night at the Stork Nest Inn in Smithers, B.C., and I’m pleased to report there was air-conditioning…..a tiny window unit circa 1950. As soon as the sun went down, we shut the unit off because it was extraordinarily loud, and opened the window. You know, somewhere after we entered Canada, we drove through a small town were a sign instructed, “Set your watch back 20 years.” Right idea, poor application: I think 40 years would be closer to the mark.  However, in defense of the Stork Nest, I’d have to say the breakfast was rather good, with eggs to order and a variety other items to round the meal out.

We drove north to Prince Rupert and the ferry to Alaska. The roads were very good, and the scenery was just astounding. The road followed the river, which I would say was in many places more than a half-mile wide. Our only complaint was that despite countless warning signs, we saw no moose or elk or deer or wolverines……..yes, there were two wolverine crossing signs. We saw some quaint things and lots of astounding scenery

The Seven Sisters

Totem Poles

Bear Parade in Smithers

[Later]

As I write this, we’re aboard the Motor Vessel Taku. We’ve been working at getting here since 4:30 AM, when we got our wakeup call after a miserable night. Many motels and restaurants in British Columbia maintain the fiction that air conditioning is not appropriate or necessary for them. This place, The Inn on the Harbor, in Port Rupert, B.C., like the others, is wrong, wrong, wrong. I would guess the temperature in our very small room didn’t go below 85 degrees at any time, and that low point was about 4:30. The management did contribute one small table fan. It was not a good night, but what does one expect for $149 (Canadian)?

Anyway, after our wakeup call, we dressed and packed……it takes a while, considering all the critical gear we have to drag in from the car every night, and then repack in the morning…had coffee and a muffin and drove to the ferry slips. We got there as directed, at 6:30 for a 9:30 departure. It was a long wait, but we finally got loaded and left on time. The M/V Taku is part of Alaska’s Marine Highway System. Alaska has more coastline than the rest of the United States combined. [That’s what the brochure says, but I’m thinking they mean only the lower 48. The islands that make up the state of Hawaii have a powerful lot of coastline to contribute to any total.] Anyway, more than half of Alaskan coastal cities are unreachable by conventional road. In 1960, just after becoming a state, voters approved a bond issue to fund a state-owned Marine Highway System that would connect those communities. There are now nine ships that serve a 3500-mile route and 33 ports. The service extends to villages in southeast Alaska as well as across the Gulf of Alaska to Kodiak Island and all the way to the Aleutians.

The brochure says that an estimated 400,000 passengers and 100,000 vehicles travel the system annually. This ship is the Taku, which is an Indian word for a strong cold wind coming off of a glacier. She entered service in 1963, and was refurbished in 1981. It’s 352 feet long, 74 feet wide, has 7 decks and a gross tonnage of 2,624. It has a service speed (I guess that’s cursing speed) of 16.5 knots. It’s driven by two 4,000 HP diesel engines. It’s designed to carry 370 passengers and about 60 vehicles of all sizes and shapes. There are 44 cabins, and lots and lots of seating. Our snug but adequate cabin has two bunks and toilet facilities including a shower. The ship boasts a restaurant and movies, a bar and a store. It’s no cruise ship, but it’s not uncomfortable……..so far. I’ll let you know more about that tomorrow…..but I’ll bet I sleep better than last night.

Our Cabin